I'm already excited about sewing another version of this, but will probably first sew Katherine Tilton's new dress, the one with the under-dress and overlay....
Pattern Description: Loose-fitting dress has collar with casing, yokes (self-lined back, cut on crosswise grain), princess seams, side pockets, back pleat, and hem band. A and C: self-lined cap sleeves. C: stitched hem on sleeves. B and C: front zipper. Purchased drawstring for collar.
I sewed view b. It is not easy to find a separating zipper in the right length for this dress, and I find Marcy's soothing words about how easy it is to shorten a zipper to be baloney. You'd need three hands at least. I threw away a nice Riri zipper after trying and failing to pry some of the teeth off. I ended up with a sportwear zipper. But it doesn't really show. I do like the zipper look, but will probably do buttons next time.
Pattern Sizing: 6 to 24; I sewed a straight size 16. As a result, since there is a lot of ease in this pattern, I'll have to wear it as a jumper (the larger size means a armhole depth that is deep enough to expose my bra... I hate that). If I sew it again, and I think I will, I'll probably sew a 12 (top)-14 (skirt), or maybe a 10-12.
Did it look like the photo/drawing on the pattern envelope once you were done sewing with it? Yes, although it looks sleeker on the model, and with the floral fabric I used it's not possible to easily see the seams.
Were the instructions easy to follow? Yes, although there are a couple of errors, which I'll mention in a moment. As others have mentioned, this is rated as "Easy", but there are so many pattern pieces, and so much fiddly sewing (they suggest hand sewing all the facing edges on the inside), that I think most beginners would be frustrated with it.
Here are what I found to be errors:
In step 6, where you start sewing the zipper, you are supposed to match the bottom stop of the zipper to the "Square" on the pattern. On my pattern, there was no square. However, if you think about the way the dress is constructed, the square would have been at the seam line, so just measure up from the base 5/8 inch, or whatever seam measurement you are using, and put the stop there.
In step 17, they tell you to press under 5/8 inch on the shoulder edges of the yoke back. It's actually the shoulder edges of the yoke back facing, not the back.
Throughout the pattern, where they tell you to trim those pressed edges of the facings to 3/8 inch, I didn't do that. I decided to leave them untrimmed until I actually got ready to sew them down, and that way if any little errors had accumulated I still had enough edge to make sure I covered the seam with the edge of the facing.
What did you particularly like or dislike about the pattern?
It's an interesting, modern design, and has lots of possibilities I think. The neck is great. No dislikes.
Fabric Used: The pattern calls for linen and similar fabric. I used a cotton, on the heavy side, that I bought for a dress several years ago and never made.
I didn't have quite enough fabric,so I sewed the back facings, hem facings, and the front pockets, from a different floral fabric that I had.
Most of the time it won't show, and if it does I hope it will just look like an interesting contrast.
If you don't think you have enough fabric, set aside the pockets, and all the facings, and cut them later. If you can cut the back pocket from your main fabric, and the front pocket from any thing else, the back pocket is the fabric that will show.
Pattern alterations or any design changes you made:
I started to shorten it, since I am a bit shorter than the height these patterns are drafted for (5'6" I think). Then I got nervous and added the length back at the hem seams. One thought I had is that the more you shorten it in the body of the dress the higher the bottom stop of the zipper will be. If you look at the pic of the model on the pattern you can see it's already high enough, at least for someone like me with middle aged thighs. So, just keep that in mind if you're going to shorten it a lot.
Would you sew it again? Would you recommend it to others?
yes, I will sew it again, and I would recommend it.
Conclusion:
Well, I hope I conveyed that I like this pattern, am excited to wear it today, and hope you'll sew it too!
Hi, Kate,
ReplyDeleteLove this dress. Is it Vogue 8876 - Marcy Tilton's design? I think it is. I loved making one and reading your review makes me want to make another. What a perfect summer dress you have!
I'm writing to answer your question on my blog about how I removed the collar from my revamped pink linen top.
I removed the collar from the collar band by picking out the stitches. I wanted to preserve as much fabric as possible for any new design elements.
But I think it would be great to just whack it off and work with a raw edge. That could be very interesting.
Clothing design is so varied now - lots of fun options.
Happy Sewing!
Martha (http://nowsewing.blogspot.com/)